Susan Volland

Goa, Goa,.....Gone!

Okay, I get it now.

My visit to Goa has been charming, historic and picturesque. The food is remarkable and very different. But I hadn't quite seen the appeal of dropping out of society to live here - until today, when I got to the beach.

I have no pictures, because I wanted to take a dip in the Arabian Sea without worrying about my gear. One dip is about all it takes to lose all perspective. The water is nearly body temp. There are miles and miles of smooth sandy beaches lined with lounge chairs and thatched umbrellas. Beach shacks with cold beer and western toilets are just a few steps away. There are dogs frolicking in the water, cows lounging in the sand and absolutely, positively no rules.

There is no describing the level of entertainment offered by the parade of European beach junkies "gone native". Some have reached miraculous brown tones - we're talking French Coffee Roasted. I actually saw one lanky European guy wearing a teensy, tiny red loincloth.

I kept my skin well covered except for my quick swim, and found a comfortable spot on a loungechair by the ocean. Cold mango drinks and the most perfectly ripe papaya ever were delivered to my side for a total cost of $1.50. I walked and walked and walked and barely saw half of the beach. I needed to refresh myself at another beach shack with a couple of cold Kingfisher beers and a marvelous snack of popodums stuffed with fried cabbage and shrimp. ($3 total)

The food in Goa is remarkable. Unfortunately, my cooking classes here fell through. Luckily I called the Cariba Beach Resort to confirm my reservation before heading out to the middle of nowhere. They had no record of my emails and don't offer classes. I'm guessing the classes were used as bait to get me to their rather run down hotel. Happily, the charming and historic Panjim Inn was able to extend my stay for a couple more nights.

So, instead of cooking I have focusing on eating. Authentic, spicy and almost fruity tasting pork Vindaloo. Tiny sardines fried crisp in coconut oil. Mussels in spicy red curry sauce. Chunky Goan pork sausages in a sweet and sour pepper sauce. Fried pomfret with tamarind and chilies. I am quickly gaining the weight I might have lost earlier.

One more day here - another beach day for sure - and then on to Calcutta.

Three cheers that my friend Griffin made it successfully through his brain surgery! (Although I was going to volunteer to bring home a monkey brain replacement if he didn't feel like his old self.)

Photos next time!

Jungle trek

Hiking in India?

Who would have thought? I guess the Himalayas are always a target destination, but taking a rugged nature trek through the forests of Kerala was certainly not on my list of things to do while visiting India. It was a marvelous surprise!

After my delightful Elephant safari, I had a full day in Kolpetta with not much planned. I could go back and look for more elephants, or I can indulge myself in a day of Ayurvedic massages, but the tour manager at the hotel seemed pretty charged about this little island in the forests. "Wear Burmudas" and bring swimming gear was the suggests. I was in the hills, not the shore, and the island is formed by a series of rivers. I figured I'd wade across a few rivulets and snap some bird shots, but it was a little more intense than that!

My guide knows the forest inside and out- he knew exactly where the rock formations for crossing the muddy rivers were, he knew which trails led to secluded swimming holes. And it looked like he was as thrilled to be out of the office, guiding me on my trek as I was. It was secluded and wild and just beautiful - and felt very, very safe. I figured if my guide  was willing to do the whole trip barefooted, I didn't need to worry much about stinging or biting critters. He got me wondering though when he started sharing his tales of tiger encounters. And all the women we ran into practically giggled and fluttered when they spoke to him. funny!

To swim alone in this warm, lazy river under a canopy of trees, listening to the birds is something I may never forget. It was just magical.

At midnight I left the hills and started a long, winding journey northbound. I am now in Goa- and boy, what a surprise it is! I am in the heart of old town, and it is sooooo Portuguese. The architecture is amazing! Tommorrow I am going to the famous flea market. I am desperately missing Jeff on these adventures!

Thanks so much for your kind words and support! It's great to feel like you are all here with me!

ELEPHANTS!!!!

Need I say more? These are real, live elephants in the wild. And baby elephants too!

I had such a great day today that I don't even need to bother writing about the charming 13 year old I met on the train. He was a little perplexed by me, but finally he explained that all I needed to do was buy a good translation of the Koran and I would be a very good Muslim woman. Nor do I need to expound on how after my two hour bus ride in the rain to Kolpetta I somehow ended up with a pocket full of warm baby barf. None of that matters!

I saw real, wild elephants today!!!!

Rally!

Okay!

It has poured down rain and crashed with thunder and lightning in the evenings here and that makes a Seattleite like myself practically weep with happiness. It is still very hot, of course, but I have learned to expect little or no activity from myself during mid day.

I spent all day yesterday floating through the backwaters on a beautiful boat powered only by poles so it was blissfully quiet and peaceful. There were all sorts of birds calling and stunning scenery. We stopped at a village to watch the women make coir/coconut fiber rope and then had a banana leaf lunch. It was geared for the tourist, but that's precisely what I am. I had a wonderful time.

I have my third class tonight. This morning I learned to make the soft, slightly soured breakfast breads made from rice and lentils - idli, dosa, masala dosa and paper dosa. They are warm and spongy and wonderful in the morning with a salty, spicy coconut chutney.  I will try making them at home, but maybe for a later meal. They take 24 hours to brew up. Tonight I will be making mackerel with mango and some more vegetables with coconut. I will admit to eating pretty simple foods because of my delicate system, but I have been surprised that the chilies haven't been to excessive.

I saw a nutmeg tree and some actual pepper on the vine. This evening I may go listen to some music at the Kathakali center. That is where the dance performance is done. Or maybe I will just try to shoot some pictures. Tomorrow I will head to cooler climes and start my search for elephants!

If you can't stand the heat- get out of the kitchen

Actually, I never even made it in to the kitchen!

I was eagerly anticipating my visit to the spice farm, but it wasn't meant to be. There were no other guests, no A/C, and no spices in season. My body had a tantrum and I decided I needed to go back to Kochi after only one night. Sadly, I have not been very productive for the last few days. I spent two days pretty much smooshed under the ceiling fans, coughing up my toenails and watching TV. I picked up a bug on my way to Jodhpur, but it wasn't the bug that I think we all expected - I got a nasty cold instead.

So, I have had to regroup mentally and take care physically. I am trying to keep positive and give myself credit for small successes. I have booked three cooking classes with a very friendly woman here in Kochi. My first class is tonight- we will be doing fish curry and three veg.  I went to a classical Keralan dance performance last night and it was very intriguing. Incredible make up and costumes and great drumming and singing in a very intimate setting. The dance and communication is remarkably like what I understand American Sign Language to be. I will try and find some info on it for my interpreter friend, Mary Clare. I really enjoyed it. I then had a simple dinner and threw it all up an hour later. Too much information?

Tomorrow I am going on a tour of the famous backwaters. I will be loaded up with meds, slathered in sunscreen and bug repellent and carrying my fan, umbrella and as much water as I can carry. Oh, and the camera too.

On a positive note- I have discovered perhaps the most perfect snack food product ever made - The Mango Creamscicle!

Kerala- God's Own Country

That is what all the signs say - and I'm going to have to agree! Kerala is stunning.

I arrived late last night and I feel like I am suddenly on vacation. I'm a block from the Arabian Sea where Chinese fishing nets, made of teak and counterweighted with big stones, have been dipping for fish for over 700 years. I walked along the shore, over mountains of tiny clam shells, along the same ground where Vasco de Gama and Marco Polo travelled. The nearby church is ringing out with hymns sung in the native tongue - (or is Latin? I wouldn't know.) It's Saturday and the ball field is loaded with cricket players - there are probably 6 or 7 matches all going at once. I snapped shots of the most glorious old homes and hotels. The streets are cobbled, there are palm trees and smiling faces everywhere. Unlike Delhi or Jodphur, this is a city where walking is acceptable, so I wasn't constantly bombarded by taxi or tuk tuk drivers trying to get me off the road. And this was just a 60 minute walk!

I only have a short time in Kochi because I am headed to the hills for my spice plantation adventure. Let's hope it is equally as lovely. It's a two hour taxi drive to the hills and then I am there for a full week. This might be where I can't access the internet at all, or I will add some pics to all my text. We'll have to wait and see.

Yesterday was a traveling day, but before I left for the airport I went to the empty lot accross from my room where they were getting ready for a big wedding. I was drawn like a moth to flame when I saw the huge cooking pots and local women arrive with a truck full of vegetables. I asked one of the helpers in the guesthouse kitchen to introduce me and ask if I could take pictures and I was welcomed like a long lost relative. It was quite amazing!  I got lots of good photos and tons of smiles and shy laughs from the women and children. I am pleased that I overcame my anxiety about intruding and just did it. I was invited to join the 1,000 guests by the grooms father - but alas, I had to fly out before the festivities.

Thanks for sending me your responses! It is great to know that my friends and family are sharing this adventure with me!

Curry and Camels

  Rajasthan is quite amazing! It is so old!

I have taken masses of pictures of rocks and fortresses. I snapped a number of shots of camel carts today. They are just strolling down the street, hauling red stone from the cliffs. If I had more time I would be able to go on a camel safari, but I think on this trip I will have to just be satisfied snapping photos of the animals, not riding them. Photos will show up eventually, I promise!

I have been stuffing myself with good food here. For breakfast there are mountains of fresh papaya, bananas, oranges and pomegranate seeds as well as homemade yogurt, cereal and the Indian style scrambled eggs with garlic, onion and red peppers. Yum.

The whole family at the Indrashan guest house is gracious and welcoming. It is a little schizophrenic at times to have such a calm and mellow house to listen to the birds and enjoy the flowers and then to visit the chaos of the city and marketplace. I fell for the pitch and bought myself my first souveniers- three paintings on old rice paper. I love the miniature style paintings I saw in the museum, and these are a little different than any I have seen so far.

My hostess, Bhavna Singh is a very talented and knowledgable cook and has been invited twice now to do demonstrations in Goa. she printed out a whole stack of recipes and  reference pages for me. And in the typical style of a cook, she swears that the recipes are exact but when she is actually cooking, she doesn't follow them at all.  Sound familiar? I scribble my notes alongside as the only hope of possibly duplicating the dishes when I get home.

Last night, instead of having our class, the family invited their guests to join them at a restaurant called On the Rocks for dinner. It was lovely - about 18 old friends and family all sitting and sharing veg and non- veg tandoori dishes like the most delicious naan and butter chicken. I had my first kulfi / ice cream. This one was scented with saffron and it was divine! Two wonderful and food crazed women were at the guesthouse as well and now I have a standing invitation to visit South Africa! Maybe for my next trip?

Tonight I have another class, and I am sure it will be as interesting as the last one. Tomorrow I fly south to Kerala for coconuts and elephant sightings!

Roasting in Rajasthan

  It's only been two days, but what a busy time!

I explored Old Delhi yesterday. I was a little nervous about it, because I had heard about how intimidating it can be - masses of humanity in tiny, crowded lanes. I seriously considered just taking it easy, but then decided that I should just be brave. The Delhi Metro system is actually very nice. For 11 rupees (about 28 cents) you can zoom over the insane traffic. It was crowded, but what metro system isn't?  I've been in worse.

When I got out of the station I jumped on a cycle rickshaw. I love cycle rickshaws! You move along just faster than walking speed,so you can see everything close up, but have the benefit of being able to weave around traffic jams. There is a nice breeze. At first I was worried that I was too heavy for some of these little guys, but then I looked around and saw cycle rickshaws loaded down with mountains of heavy cargo, and sometimes crowds of people. I felt like in the end I might be giving this guy a break.

In Old Delhi I saw the ancient Red Fort and the nearby Mosque, then I went to the Ghandi memorial, which was a very lovely and green respite in this very dusty city. I had lunch at a famous kebab place in the Moslem area and my driver took me through the market - through these incredibly tiny, crowded streets lined with just amazing things - One street is just sequins and sparkles for saris. Susan Goodwin you would just go nuts! It was intense, but being in the rickshaw made it all quite manageable. Of course, he ripped me off something royal in the end, pricewise - but I still think I got a pretty good deal for a day of being pedalled around the city. I didn't fight him much.

While I am not sorry to see the end of Delhi for a while, I was a little nervous to leave the glorious sanctuary of the Master Guest House and brave the wild world of the train system. Back home, I had booked a first class, air conditioned berth. I figured I would be in the lap of luxury for my first journey in India. I managed to find the train, but it took me a while to convince myself that I had the right compartment. This wasn't exactly luxury - just four bunk beds, but the problem lied in the fact that all three of my sleeping companions were male! Booking a berth guarantees that your name is on a particular bunk, but it doesn't mean that you will have any control of who your travelling companions might be. Yikes! Of course, they were perfect gentlemen. They could tell I was a little uncomforable, but made me feel very safe. I crawled up to my top bunk, read for a while and then everyone conked out and slept until the arrival in Jodhpur. There was absolutely no cause for alarm in the end and it was a very comfortable journey. But it was a little odd.

The Indrashan guest house is lovely with lots of birds and a few friendly cows. I have a lovely little balcony overlooking the street. Two South African women will be joining me in my class tonight. Since the class doesn't start until this evening, I hired a tuk tuk driver for a day tour. A tuk tuk is a three wheeled "car" that is powered by somekind of lawn mower engine. They even have a rope pull start half the time. Todays is gayly decorated with sparkly gold pom poms and religious paintings. My driver took me to visit the Palace of the Marahaja and his family, then the Old Fort which is simply amazing. I will try to post some pictures. It is hot, rocky, bone dry and very dramatic here- on the cusp of the desert.

Walking around in that huge fort on the rocks, I am pretty much roasting. I'm going to grab a bite to eat and then cool down for a while before I start cooking. No camel rides yet, but I will look in to it! The shopping possibilities are unbelievable, but I am holding back to keep my load light.

Thanks for all of your well wishes!

Susan

First Cooking Class - Punjabi Vegetarian

Okay, did I ever mention before that I'm brilliant??  This whole cooking focus in India was pure genius!! It is a great way to learn about the country and really learn about the women and  their experiences. Bombing around the city in tiny vehicles looking for something to see in the haze is all well and good, I did that yesterday, but it  just  doesn’t compare with  spending  time in the kitchen  talking about recipes and family.

Today I stayed “home” at the Master Guest House and then cooked  with Ushi, the proprietress, and two of the  young men who work for her, Dinesh. and Prikash. I had told Ushi earlier that  I wanted to learn about very simple, family foods and  she  taught me some of the  tricks  she learned from her  grandmother, mother and mother-in-  law.  We focused on breads and lentils. We also made a really quick and delicious traditional potato curry.

Did you know that you can make 5 very different kinds of flatbreads using the same dough of wheat flour and water ? While my chapattis are not yet round, I have learned a few tricks with the rolling pin and will practice, practice, practice.

In addition to cooking, I took a long walk through a market, traveled via tuk tuk, cycle

rickshaw and  metro today. And was reminded of why Jeff takes all the pictures! I suck!!   Pictures will come later, when I find a computer with a USB port. (and a keyboard that  doesn’t stick on every  third letter)

Tomorrow  I take an overnight train West into the desert to Jodhpur, in the state of  Rajasthan. Look  it up!

Namaste!

Susan

I made it!

I Made It!

I am really in India!

And now, after 24 hours I am even  quite well rested and ready to do a little adventuring.  I took it easy yesterday – I wanted to acclimatize and the guesthouse is so comfortable and welcoming. I  can hear the birds and  the whole place  smells of incense. 

My  successes –

* My luggage arrived  when I  did!

*  I  enjoyed my first  “ bucket  shower”

* I only threw the paper into the toilet  bowl twice Instead of  placing it in the  receptacle.

* I went for a walk yesterday and managed to return alive -  traffic is … remarkable!! 

*  It only took one  block before the man with no hands stopped following  me, calling out  sistah,  sistah, sistah?  Please sistah, sistah,  sistah, sistah, sistah, sistah, sistah,  sistah, sistah.  Excuse me, sistah, sistah, sistah, sistah. Sistah,  sistah? Sistah? Sistah,  sistah,  sistah. I think  I managed  quite  well.

* I did not reach out and pet or fondle any of the many lazy and handsome stray dogs draped around the streets.

I can honestly say that my head is spinning. I keep going around in circles thinking - My God I  am soooo out of my element. And then realizing that I am having a wonderful adventure and that “out of my element” is exactly my very best element.

I miss Jeff and wish he were here to share this with me, but also  know that he would absolutely hate it.

My tea and chappatis are ready, so I will go.

Check again soon !

Sue