I used to think tofu was inedible, slippery, tasteless chunks of solidified goo. I would actually slurp my miso soup in a sideways sort of way in order to leave the tiny cubes untouched in the bottom of my bowl. Today, I can’t seem to get enough of the stuff. What changed?
Two things. First, I am now able to source freshly made local tofu. It is sold in blocks, not submerged in tubs of suspect liquid. It is often still warm. It has a lovely texture, like young cheese, and a fresh clean flavor. In other words, fresh tofu has everything that the tofu of my youth lacked.
Second- I discovered Chinese Ma Bo Tofu and Korean Soon du bu. In these traditional, spicy dishes, the tofu is not sneaked in as a filler or protein substitute. And they are also not dishes designed to delicately nourish the serene palates of meditating, vegetarian monks. They are neither subtle nor wimpy. They explode with flavor while still managing to bring a sense of comfort to the eater.
Ma Bo or Mapo Tofu is said to translate into “pock marked” bean curd because the woman who created it for her husband’s restaurant had some complexion difficulties. To make it, a small amount of ground pork is fried crisp with garlic and ginger and then transformed into fiery sauce with Szechuan bean paste. Big chunks of soft tofu are simmered in the sauce – with a hint of mouth numbing Szechuan peppercorns, a few drops of sesame oil and a sprinkle of fresh sliced scallions.
This is not a difficult dish to find, but few restaurants make it really well. It is too bland and the tofu is of a poor quality. Luckily, it is easy to make at home. And while it isn’t the best, I am not opposed to using the House Brand Extra Hot Ma Bo Tofu instant sauce found in Asian supermarkets, or the Hot Bean Sauce from Lee Kum Kee. Ma Bo tofu makes a wonderful quick dinner with rice and some quick fried cabbage or greens. Yum!
My newest tofu passion is Soon du bu. My friend Gwen turned me on to this bubbling cauldron of tofu in an explosive red chili broth. It can be accented with seafood, meat, eggs or vegetables, but it is the tofu that really matters. Oh, yum!! It’s spicy – super spicy, but with a rich complexity that is rarely painful. It warms the soul from deep inside rather than flaming up the senses.
On a recent visit to the H Mart in Federal Way, (where they make a decent soon du bu in the restaurant) I picked up a packet of instant tofu broth seasoning mix. Building a bowl of hot tofu soup in this way as easy as making instant ramen noodles and just as much fun to customize. The finished soup is thin and not nearly as complex and intriguing as a bowl made from scratch – but on a cold day it is as comforting and nourishing as the best chicken noodle soup. And that is high praise.
