Okay, Calcutta is pretty much nuts. It is in many ways the what I think a lot of people imagine all of India to be - unbelievably crowded with people, shops, animals, shocking poverty and the most amazing driving and traffic I hope to ever see. Add to that the fact that March and April are the hottest and most humid months of the year, and I can safely say that my two days in Calcutta were mostly spent just managing to get from one place to another. This is a city it would take a lifetime to explore. Some regions are endless winding streets and honking cars and then other regions are huge parks and glorious architecture. The metro system is easy and efficient. And there were many people always eager to help if I looked lost. Which I was most of the time.
It was good to get back into the kitchen. The highlight of my visit was the two classes on Bengali cooking from two different women. I learned that most Bengali food is served in the home- and there are few restaurants serving authentic preparations. Again, the cuisine and techniques are very different from the other regions I have visited. The ingredients are very familiar in my repertoire- lots of mustard seeds, cilantro, green chilies and fish. But the tastes and assembly are different. Also, Bengali food is served in courses unlike most of India. Chutney is a course on its own, served after the main entree to aid in digestion. I learned two new mango chutneys - one with green mangoes and Benagli five spice called Panch Pharon, and the other with chopped tomato and a sweet reduced mango juice that is then cubed and cooked with the spices and sugar. Yum! The fish is also something I will duplicate at home - one version was steamed with lots of mustard seeds and another was quickly fried brown and then draped in a fresh coriander sauce. I also had a type of gourd cooked in a sauce of ground poppy seeds and curried banana fritters stuffed with raisins and Indian cheese. Yum again!
I left my final cooking class and jumped on the night train to way up North in the state of West Bengal. Then I took a winding, rugged, three hour taxi up the mountains, past fields and fields of tea shrubs into the city of Darjeeling. I feel like my IQ has doubled with the cool, fresh air and mountain breeze.
Darjeeling is a delight. I have only been here a few hours and have barely seen any of it, but the city has a wonderful feel. At the center of town there are no cars or motorcycles allowed. I hired my own private Sherpa to carry my suitcase up to the guest house where I have a nearly unobstructed view of the mountains. The city is literally clinging to the steep mountain side. When the cloud cover breaks there are spectacular views of the valleys and crags below and the mountains surrounding. I did a little wandering and shared a pot of tea with a gentleman from Holland who I met on the train and shared a taxi into town with. The tea was just as they claim - the champagne of teas.
My plans are simple for the next few days. I will wander a bit waiting for glimpses of the Himalayas surrounding me. I will sit and sip tea. And I will take some time to quietly ponder that wonder and diversity that is India.
girl, you are one good travel blogger, every post I read I can feel and taste!
thanks for sharing, it's yummy.
Melinda
Posted by: melinda Wellsandt | March 26, 2008 at 10:08 AM
How Perfect! Musing with tea in Darjeeling! Watching the mountain views change! If ever there was a more personalized, diverse, enriching one month "taste" of India, I would be amazed!
This has been wonderful but I have about three lifetimes of questions stored up! Be ready to talk!!
All is well - Really! We had good weekend with Boyce Family - didn't see enough of Sierra, however! She was totally engrossed in "Fruits Basket", Japanese books from her own Auntie Mame equivalent!!!
Yes!
See ya soon! Keep on keeping on!!!!! luv, m
Posted by: Karma Fowler | March 26, 2008 at 12:27 PM